Difficulty: Easy
Correct Answer: the swell of the sea breaking on the shore or reefs
Explanation:
Introduction / Context:
The surf zone is a key nearshore region where waves shoal, steepen, break, and generate intense turbulence and currents (e.g., longshore and rip currents). Accurate terminology helps when analyzing sediment transport, coastal structures, and beach safety.
Given Data / Assumptions:
Concept / Approach:
The surf zone is not defined by a fixed depth (not a particular “fathom line”), but by the dynamic region where waves actually break and then transition into uprush (swash). Thus, a description referencing breaking swells at the shore/reef best captures the definition.
Step-by-Step Solution:
Reject fixed-depth definitions: surf zone varies with wave height/period and tide.Adopt process-based definition: where swell breaks on shore/reefs and generates surf.Therefore, option referencing breaking swell is correct.
Verification / Alternative check:
Coastal process texts describe the surf zone as extending from the outermost breakpoint to the swash zone.
Why Other Options Are Wrong:
Common Pitfalls:
Final Answer:
the swell of the sea breaking on the shore or reefs
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