For deep-water gravity waves, the wavelength L can be estimated from the wave period T (in seconds). Which of the following is Bertin’s formula as commonly quoted in coastal engineering texts?
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AL = (g * T) / (2 * pi)
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BL = (g * T^2) / (2 * pi)
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CL = (2 * g * T) / pi
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DL = (2 * g * T^2) / pi
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EL = g * T^2
Answer
Correct Answer: L = (g * T^2) / (2 * pi)
Explanation
Introduction / Context:Estimating wavelength from period is essential for preliminary breakwater sizing, harbour resonance checks, and wave transformation calculations. Bertin’s expression (a concise statement of the linear deep-water dispersion relation) links L and T without requiring iteration.
Given Data / Assumptions:
- Deep-water approximation (depth >> L/2).
- g = acceleration due to gravity ≈ 9.81 m/s^2.
- T is the wave period (s), L the wavelength (m).
Concept / Approach:The linear wave relation gives c = L/T and c^2 = g * L / (2 * pi) in deep water, leading to L = (g * T^2) / (2 * pi). This compact form is widely attributed in exam literature as “Bertin’s formula.” It provides a quick mapping from T to L for early-stage design checks.
Step-by-Step Solution:Start with deep-water dispersion: c^2 = g * L / (2 * pi).Use c = L / T → (L / T)^2 = g * L / (2 * pi).Rearrange: L = (g * T^2) / (2 * pi).Pick the matching option.
Verification / Alternative check:Sanity check with T = 8 s: L ≈ (9.81 * 64) / (6.283) ≈ 100 m, consistent with deep-water waves of that period.
Why Other Options Are Wrong:
- Forms linear in T (options a, c) are dimensionally inconsistent for wavelength.
- Multiplying numerator by 2 or omitting 2 * pi yields significant overestimation.
- L = g * T^2 omits the 2 * pi factor and overpredicts.
Common Pitfalls:Forgetting the deep-water condition; misplacing 2 * pi in numerator/denominator; mixing phase speed and group speed.
Final Answer:L = (g * T^2) / (2 * pi)